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How this year’s Oscar-nominated costume designers brought their sketches to life

Ruth E. Carter for Black Panther

When it came to the Dora Milaje, the king’s all-female military group, “Ryan was very much involved with making sure the Dora Milaje were wearing a uniform that was purposeful, that was believable, that wasn’t exploitative,” Carter says. “It honored women, it honored the female form, but it didn’t exploit it.” Rather, Coogler wanted to celebrate the talents of the warriors, wanted to ground them in reality. “We really want the Dora Milaje,” Carter goes on, “to be badass, to be real fighters and wearing a uniform that could be believable, that they were trained, and they are killers, trained fighters. And in that way, we lowered them to the ground, we gave them a split-toe boot.”

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